Excessive water flow due to an oversized pump or undersized backwash valve may be the problem. To test, partially hold your hand in front of any return fitting or partially close a valve after the last piece of equipment. If the noise quiets down, this will confirm that the problem is excessive flow. Depending on the situation this can be solved by downsizing the pump, upsizing the backwash valve, or installing smaller eyeball fittings on the returns in the pool.
Too much air in the system. This is normally caused by an air leak on the suction side of your equipment. If you notice air pockets in your pump trap or if you open your air relief valve on your filter and an excessive amount of air needs to be discharged, then you most likely have a suction side air leak.
The valve spider gasket inside of the valve may have become worn or loose. If this is the case, you will need to replace the gasket. With the pump off, remove the cover screws of the valve. Gently remove the old gasket and glue, ensuring the channels are clean and clear. Use 3M adhesive or a similar type adhesive. Lay a bead of adhesive onto the flat surface where the gasket sits. Place the flat side of the gasket onto the diverter. Apply pressure to firmly seat the gasket and let dry for 24 hours or contact local pool/spa professional or dealer for repair.
The connections from the pump going into the backwash valve may be reversed. Please review instruction sheets for proper installation.
Out of balance pool water can permit algae to grow or make water cloudy. Take a pool water sample to your local pool/spa professional or dealer and have it tested to ensure that your pool water is properly balanced.
If your filter is dirty, the flow of water through your filter may be low causing your pool water problem. It might be necessary to backwash or disassemble the filter for a thorough cleaning. If the filter has just been installed, check to ensure the plumbing was installed correctly.
Filter operation cycle may not be long enough to thoroughly clean the pool. Try running the filter for 24 hours, then re-adjust the running time to a shorter cycle. The circulation time required to keep a pool clean and clear varies due to bather load, water temperature, sunlight, and proper pool chemistry. It might take some time to find the appropriate circulation time for your pool based on these variables.
A dirty filter may be the problem. When the filter pressure rises 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure, it is time to backwash or clean the filter.
Algae may be clogging the filter, keeping the pressure high. The filter cannot kill algae. Contact your local pool/spa professional or dealer for proper chemical applications.
If the filter pressure continues to run high with reduced water flow to the pool, the pump may be moving more water than the filter is designed to handle. Check the flow ratings of both the pump and filter to ensure they are sized correctly.
You may have a blocked or plugged return line.
The Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) filter contains filter elements that have curved grids. They are covered in a fabric on which the D.E. forms a coating. The D.E. acts as a filter by permitting water to filter through the D.E. and leave the impurities behind. The D.E. filter has the ability to filter out microscopic particles.
D.E. filters filter the water down to 3-5 microns, every time the water passes through the filter. Maintain a balanced clear pool and this will reduce incidents of rapid pressure rise. One possibility is that the filter grids are clogged with minerals or oils. You should clean your grids at least once a year, or season, with a degreaser and if needed an acid bath. Minerals and oils embed themselves in the fabric of the filter and reduce the available surface area used for filtering.
If too little D.E. is added during pre-coat, debris and particles will embed in the fabric. Cleaning with a high-pressure hose, NOT A POWER WASHER, may be needed to remove the particles. If cleaning does not work, then replacement is the only option.
You may need to backwash more frequently or for a longer period of time. Debris can quickly clog a filter, especially if there are algae present. Backwashing should be done whenever the pressure rises 8-10 PSI over clean filter pressure and should continue till the water runs clear through the sight tube on the waste port of the multi-port valve.
When a D.E. filter is properly backwashed you will be removing about 80-90% of the D.E. The remaining D.E. may be clumped in the corners of the filter or caked in the middle. This is common. After backwashing, new D.E. must be added to the filter. Add the entire amount of D.E. the filter recommends. If you see D.E. returning to the pool, vacuum it to waste, after it settles. The next time you backwash and recoat, decrease the amount by 1 pound. This will avoid D.E. going back into the pool.
The only way to remove the entire amount of D.E. is to disassemble the filter. The next time the filter is disassembled and cleaned, pre-coat with the entire quantity of D.E. Remember, the filter should be taken apart and cleaned at least once a year.
D.E. is added through the skimmer with the pump running. Each filter has a different requirement of D.E. At initial start up or after a thorough cleaning, the filter will need to be pre-coated with D.E. The filter label will state the amount of D.E. required. Start the pump and once the pump is fully primed, slowly add the D.E. into the skimmer. The pump will draw in the D.E. and send it into the filter, where it coats the grids. Once the require amount of D.E. is added, take a reading of the filter’s pressure gauge. This is the clean starting pressure of the filter. When the pressure rises 8-10 PSI above the starting pressure, it is time to backwash or clean the filter. After the filter is backwashed or thoroughly cleaned, by taking it apart and hosing it out, you will need to pre-coat the filter again with the entire amount of D.E. stated on the filter label.
There are only a handful of reasons why D.E. could be leaking into the pool:
When the filter pressure rises 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure, the filter must be backwashed. Turn off the pool pump. Rotate the multi-port valve to backwash position or slide the slide valve up. When the pump is turned on, the dirty D.E. and water will flow out to waste. Once the water runs clear, turn off the pump. With a slide valve, push the handle down and start the pump. Once the pump is primed, add the required D.E. If using a multi-port valve, rotate the handle to rinse. Turn on the pump and let water flow for 20-30 seconds, cleaning out the plumbing lines. Turn off the pump and rotate the valve back to filter. Turn on the pump and once primed add required D.E.
The sand filter tank is round or oval shaped. The sand contained in the filter strains the impurities from the water as the water passes through the sand. The sand filter uses a multi-port valve to direct the water through the filter or out to backwash. The valves are either top or side mount. Both valves work the same way. In filter position, the water is directed over the top of the sand bed and, as the water flows down through the sand, the sharp edges of the sand catch the particles in the water. The clean water is pushed out of the filter through the bottom lateral assembly. The laterals are finger tubes with slots which are connected to a center hub in a circular pattern which allow the clean water to return back to the pool and the sand and dirt to stay in the filter.
Filter – Allows the water to flow through the filter media and then directs the water to the return lines and back to the pool.
Backwash – When the filter pressure rises 8-10 pounds over the clean starting pressure, the water is directed through the filter in the opposite direction of “Filter”. This enables the dirty water and debris to be removed from the filter.
Waste – The water is directed from the pump, through the multi-port valve and out of the waste line (the water never enters the filter tank).
Re-Circulate – The water enters the valve and returns into the pool (the water never enters the filter tank).
Rinse – Mainly used with sand filters. After backwashing run the filter in the rinse position, this will clear the plumbing lines from any remaining debris left after backwashing and resets the sand bed.
Closed – This position will not allow water flow through the valve.
Winter – Used when winterizing. This position is between two other positions and allows water to flow in all directions. This is used to prevent water being trapped in the valve that could freeze and crack the valve.
Multi-Port Valve Instruction Manual – 810-0066
The pressure gauge will show a reading when water passes through the valve or filter, depending on the gauge’s location. If the gauge remains at zero or stays at the same pressure, whether the pump is operating or not, the gauge is broken and needs to be replaced.
The pump is not pushing water into the filter due to an air leak or broken impeller.
The handle is kept in position by a handle spring. The tension on the handle helps keep the gasket seated and the water flowing in the correct direction. The spring may need to be replaced.
The internal stem assembly has a shaft seal to prevent water leaks around the handle. The stem gaskets need to be replaced.
The cover gasket is either warped or pinched. With the pump off, remove the cover assembly and examine the gasket. If the gasket cannot be reseated, it will need to be replaced.
At the bottom of the valve is a spider gasket. This gasket seals against the valve body to divide the ports. Depending on the placement of the handle, each port is designed to direct the water flow in the appropriate direction. If the gasket swells, or becomes unseated from the channel, the water will flow in various directions. The gasket can be replaced in some models or the entire key/stem assembly will need to be replaced.
The spider gasket can be replaced. The first step would be to GENLTY remove the old gasket and glue, ensuring the channels are clean and clear. There are two types of glues that can be used for this application, crazy glue or 3M adhesive.
3M Adhesive – Apply a bead of adhesive onto the surface where the gasket sits. Place the flat side of gasket onto the diverter. Apply pressure to firmly seat the gasket and let dry for 24 hours.
Crazy Glue – Use caution when using crazy glue. You will have only ONE chance to seat the gasket. Follow the instructions above for installation.
Make sure you are following the instructions in your Waterway owner’s manual. The sand bed may be clogged with mineral deposits or other material that will not backwash away. Some calcium based chlorines and other alternative sanitizers could cause a build-up in your sand bed. You may need to change the sand.
Before you change the sand in you filter, try removing approximately 1″ of the top layer of sand, and replace with the exact amount of sand removed. This sometimes rids the sand bed of the deposits clogging the filter.
You may have to clean you filter system with a special filter cleaner, check with your local pool/spa professional or dealer for proper procedures. Check to see if there is a closed or partially closed valve on the return piping.
Your pump may be too small to provide sufficient flow for proper backwashing. Your filter will filter properly, but if your pump does not supply at least 60% of the filter’s designed flow rate, you filter will never backwash completely. Refer to the label on your filter for flow rate requirements. It may be necessary to upgrade the pump or downgrade the filter.
Your pump may also be exceeding the maximum allowed flow rate of you filter causing excessive backpressure. Check your Waterway filter owners guide or the operations label on your filter for the maximum allowed flow rate. You may have to downsize the impeller or pump to a lower horsepower or change the filter for one that will accommodate the pump’s flow rate. If allowed to continue, a pump that exceeds the recommended flow rate of a sand filter could cause the sand bed to channel (small channels in the sand that allow debris to pass unfiltered). This would cause debris to bypass the filter.
Refer to Waterway’s owners guide for proper backwashing procedures. It may be that you are not backwashing long enough. Always backwash until the water is flowing clean/clear through the waste adapter fitting.
You may have live algae causing the filter to clog. You may also have mineral deposits building in the sand bed.
It is highly recommended that you have your water tested by your local pool/spa professional or dealer. Compare those results with your own. You may need to update your test kit or replace the testing solutions.
The sand you are using could be too small. Sand that is too small can travel through the laterals in the bottom of your filter and back to the pool. #20 silica sand, 0.45-0.55mm in size, is required. This can be obtained through your local pool/spa professional or dealer.
Prior to adding sand, remember to always remove a lateral (it unthreads or unlocks) from the hub assembly at the bottom of the filter. Try putting some of the sand you are going to add inside the lateral. Other than debris sand (fines), 99% of the sand should stay inside the lateral. If most of the sand comes through the holes of the lateral, the sand is too small.
Your pump may be too large or the sand level too high in the filter. When the filter is backwashing. the water flow can cause the sand to rise high enough and overflow into the standpipe, which will allow the sand back into the pool. Refer to the Waterway owners guide or the filter label for the correct amount of sand for your filter.
A lateral could be cracked or broken, the multi-port valve may need servicing, or too much air may be passing through the filter, causing a channeling effect, which permits dirt to get by the filter.
There may be a broken or cracked lateral located on the manifold of your filter. You will need to inspect these laterals and replace them if necessary.
On average, sand should be replaced every 2-4 years. This may be longer if the pool stays clear, or shorter, if the filter runs all the time. The jagged edges of the sand wear down and become smooth as the sand ages. When this happens the sand can no longer trap debris particles and dirt can pass through the sand and back into the pool.
If the pool is chemically balanced, the system is running the proper length of time and the bather load is normal, but the water will not clear, even using a flocculent or clarifier, then the sand needs changing.
As the sand ages, it may start to clump and the water flow can form channels in the sand, allowing the debris to pass through. Channeling is often seen when the pump horsepower is too large and wants to move too much water through the filter.
For our top mount filter – You must first disconnect the pipes or hoses leading into the valve and open the drain plug on the filter. Next, remove the nut or clamp holding the multi-port valve to the tank body. Once the valve has been removed, you will be able to see the sand bed. The best way to remove the sand is to use a portable wet/dry vacuum (recommended). Once the old sand has been removed, hose out the inside of the tank to clean the filter out. Once this water is drained, replace the drain cap and fill the tank ½ – ¾ full of water, and place the sand fill guide on the standpipe. This is to protect the lateral assembly while the new sand is added. DO NOT allow the sand to enter the vertical pipe sticking up from the bottom of the filter tank. Add the sand slowly till the laterals are fully covered. Remove sand fill guide prior to installing the multi-port valve.
For our side mount tank – Rotate the multi-port valve to the closed position and open the filter’s drain plug. Remove the tank closure dome and expose the top diffuser. The top diffuser lifts off and the old sand can be removed. The best way to remove the sand is to use a portable wet/dry vacuum (recommended). Once the old sand has been removed, hose out the inside of the tank to clean the filter out. Once this water is drained, replace the drain cap and fill the tank ½ – ¾ full of water, place the sand fill guide on top of the diffuser. This is to protect the lateral assembly while the new sand is added. DO NOT allow the sand to enter the internal piping. Add the sand slowly till the laterals are fully covered. Remove sand fill guide prior to installing the dome cover.
When the filter pressure rises 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure it is time to backwash. Turn the pump off and rotate the multi-port valve to backwash. Turn on the pump and the dirty water will flow out the waste line. Once the water runs clear in the valve’s sight tube, turn off the pump. Rotate the valve to rinse. Turn on the pump for 20-30 seconds. This will clean out the plumbing lines and reset the sand bed. Turn off the pump, rotate the valve to filter position and begin to filter. Take a reading of this new clean starting pressure, so you have a reference point for the next backwash cycle. Run water into the pool during this process.
In a cartridge filter, the water flows into the filter that contains one or more filter elements. These elements have a fine mesh material. The tight mesh fabric is able to strain out the impurities. Cleaning the cartridge is simple because all you need to do is remove the cartridge, wash it and put it back in the filter.
When a cartridge filter is clean it is possible for algae to pass through the filter element. Cartridge filters filter out smaller particles as the filter becomes dirty. The dirt or debris on the element’s surface helps to catch smaller particles. It may be necessary to add certain chemicals to the pool so smaller particles can be picked up by the filter element. Consult your local pool/spa professional or dealer for the proper chemicals to accomplish this task.
The most likely cause is excessive water flow through the filter. The water may be moving so fast, that it goes in and comes out without flowing through the entire filter housing. Reducing the size of the pump usually corrects the problem.
The cartridges should be cleaned once a season with a degreaser or acid bath.
Body oils are the first things to clog a cartridge element. A degreasing solution should be used to remove oils. If an acid bath is used to remove oils, it will embed these oils into the fabric and make the element less effective. Your local pool/spa dealer should have a cartridge cleaner.
An acid bath is for mineral deposits on the elements. If an acid bath is needed, do a degreasing wash first, then the acid treatment. Start off with a mixture of 1 part acid to 5 parts water in a bucket. ALWAYS add acid to water, never water to acid. If the mixture does not clean the elements effectively, increase the mixture to 2 parts acid to 5 parts water. Follow the proper disposal of the acid mixture, as per the acid manufacturer’s instructions.
Most local pool/spa or dealers offer a filter cleaning service.
The pump must be wired according to the wiring diagram located on the motor data plate. Consult a professional electrician.
It is very important that your pump is located in an area that has adequate drainage to prevent flooding from rain and other water sources. Check to make sure the pump did not fail because of water damage. Check the power (a volt meter is needed to check voltage), breakers, switches, etc., to ensure your pump is electrically powered. Determining the voltage is very important.
*The pump must be wired according to the wiring diagram located on the motor label. Consult a professional electrician.
If you have a timer or automated control system, ensure that it is properly working. Waterway recommends that you contact a certified electrician for any electrical repairs.
This may be caused by insufficient power due to an undersized wire or a poor connection. The pump must be wired according to the wiring diagram located on the motor label. Consult a professional electrician.
Your local power company might be experiencing a power drop especially during a heat wave. Restart your pump when the weather cools to confirm that the problem is really in the motor.
Your pump may have a thermal overload, which will shut the motor off when it gets too hot. It will restart once it has cooled down. Check the air intake vents of your motor to ensure they are free of debris. If debris is blocking these vents, it will cause the motor to run hot and possibly shut down.
Make sure your pump is located in an area with adequate drainage. Flooding from rain and other sources could cause a pump to run hot and cut off.
*Back pressure will cause the pump to overheat & shut down. Make sure there is proper water flow, by checking the valves, jets, filter, etc.
The motor has an internal cooling fan that can be heard. When installing your pump, it is advised to carefully consider the location; under a bedroom window may not be an ideal location.
Vibration from the pump’s feet and the base (where the pump rests) can cause the pump to be noisy. A piece of old carpet or rubber between the pump’s base and equipment pad might reduce the noise.
Ensure the pump is level and the suction lines are not higher then the pump.
The bearing(s) might be noisy due to age or high concentrations of chemicals and heat. A leaky pump seal could damage the front motor bearing. It is very important to quickly repair any leaks around the pump to prevent extensive damage. It is recommended that you replace the bearings or the entire motor. Contact an Authorized Pool/Spa Professional or Dealer for repair.
Many times a noisy pump can come from cavitations (starving the pump). Cavitations have two possible causes, which are both hydraulically (water flow) related. The first is that the suction piping is undersized. If this pipe is undersized, the amount of water the pump requires to operate properly is reduced. Increasing the pipe size (increase water flow) or dropping the size of the impeller (decrease water flow) can quiet the pump. The second is that there is little or no backpressure on the pressure side of system (water feature pumps are a good example). Adding a valve or something to increase backpressure is advised.
For all of the above, it may be necessary to contact an authorized pool/spa professional or dealer for assistance.
Waterway pumps/motors are factory wired for 240 volts ONLY, unless the motor is 120 volts. Check the voltage of the incoming supply power and ensure the motor is wired or can be wired for this voltage (data plate on motor will help provide voltage and wiring information). Also check for loose or badly connected wires. Contact a certified electrician for repair.
If air is returning into the pool there might be a leak on the suction side of the pump. It may be necessary to contact a local authorized pool/spa or dealer for repair. Check the following items that maybe causing air to enter the system:
On a new installation or start up you may have bubbles returning for a short period of time. Make sure the air relief valve is open. Close it when you have a steady flow of water coming out of the relief.
A dirty filter, blocked return line, or a valve that is shut or partially shut off on the return side of the pump can cause this problem.
Check the strainer basket and make sure it is clean of debris.
The pump’s impeller may be clogged if the pump is running but the pressure is very low on the filter. Inspect and clean the impeller.
The pump may have lost prime or have a suction leak.
Electric rates have substantially increased over the past few years. Ensure the time clock or automated control is correctly set. Six to eight hours a day is a good benchmark for circulation time. This will vary depending on the size of the pool and the horsepower of the pump. If you using a single speed pump, use of a 2 speed motor will save you lot of money. Consult with a local pool/spa professional or dealer for the recommended filter time for your specific pool.
As motors age, their efficiency decreases.
There could be an air leak on the suction side of the pump.
Check to make sure the suction line is free of obstructions.
Check to make sure the impeller is still attached to the shaft of the motor. If the impeller has broken off, it will need to be replaced.
If the pump is installed at a distance from the pool or is elevated above the normal deck level, the time needed to prime the pump could be longer. For elevated installations, a check valve may be needed on the suction line to allow for easier priming.
Covers can extend the life of a motor. However, make sure that the cooling vents on the motor are left unobstructed for proper air circulation. Motor covers are not required.
No. Waterway pump motors are permanently lubricated and sealed.
Waterway recommends a silicone or Teflon based lubricant for all o-rings. Other lubricants may cause premature failure and swelling of the o-rings. NEVER USE PETROLEUM JELLY for a lubricant. Its oils will break down the rubber of the o-ring.
In most cases the answer is no. The size of the plumbing and all other equipment must be considered. Contact a pool/spa professional or dealer with hydraulics experience for assistance.
Horsepower is matched with the impeller inside the pump. Having a larger impeller on a smaller horsepower motor will cause premature failure of the motor. It is better to replace it with the same horsepower. You can only downsize the impeller in horsepower rating.
Many pump motors are warm or somewhat hot to the touch. This is normal in most cases. All motors come with a thermal overload protection that will shut the motor off if it becomes too hot for safe operation.
Always keep the pool equipment clear and ensure that there is nothing growing over the motor. If insects are a large problem in your area, treat for insects. The air circulation around the motor is crucial for proper operation. Failure to ensure proper air circulation will reduce the life of the equipment.
Waterway pumps should never operate without water. The pump seal assembly in the pump volute (area between the strainer basket and the pump motor) protects the pump motor from pool water. This seal assembly gets hot and is cooled by the pool water. If the pump is running without water, the seal will overheat and melt, if left running without water for a long period of time, the heat generated could damage the PVC pipe and other system components.
Waterway in-ground pumps are self-priming centrifugal pumps. These pumps have a vacuum chamber, commonly known as the pump housing.
The pump housing must be filled with water in order to create a vacuum, resulting in the pump drawing the water out of your pool or spa. The pump housing will remain full of water while the pump is on, and will remain full or partially full when the pump is shut off.
When powered on, the motor will begin to rotate. 2-speed pumps will power on a pre-selected speed or with some controllers, it will cycle at high before changing to the lower speed. The motor spins the pump impeller, located inside the pump volute. While the motor is rotating, the tips of the impeller are hydraulically sealed inside the pump diffuser, which is responsible for self-priming.
Self-priming can only occur if the pump has a diffuser. All in-ground Waterway pumps have an internal diffuser. It helps to eliminate any air approaching into the pump housing from the suction piping. As all the air is removed from the system, you will notice bubbles returning to the pool through the return fittings. A full prime occurs when the bubbles stop returning to the pool and the pump basket is full of water. The filter pressure will rise as the pump reaches full prime. The actual gallons per minute (GPM) vary with the type of pump, horsepower, pipe size, distance from pool and other restrictions within the plumbing system.
Waterway self-priming pumps are very dependable and simple in design. They require a sufficient supply of water from the pool or spa, and no air in the suction lines. Air could come from a loose strainer cover, a leak in any valve, a pinhole in any suction line or a crack or loose connections in the underground piping.
Yes. Without the strainer basket, debris will clog the impeller in the pump volute causing the pump to cease moving water. Be sure to clean your strainer basket, as well as the skimmer baskets, so water flow is not obstructed and the pump is not overworked.
To winterize a Waterway pool pump, turn off the electrical circuit breaker that supplies power to the pump. Also, make sure that there is NO water left inside the pump. All Waterway pumps are equipped with drain plugs that will allow excess water to drain once the plugs are removed. Disconnect the pump from the system and after all the water is drained out, store indoors for the winter. Contact your local pool/spa professional or dealer for proper winterization procedures.
There are many factors to consider: bather load, gallons of water, pump horsepower, type and size of filter just to name a few. A good guideline is 6-8 hours a day. On the cooler days and early and late season, you can cut the run time down to 4-6 hours because there are usually less swimmers and cooler water which would require less chemicals. In peak season, when it is the hottest, raising the run time to 6-8 hours per day will help to keep the pool clean and circulating during its time of heaviest use.
The above ground pumps operate very similarly to the in-ground units, with one exception. They need to be installed with the water supply level higher than the inlet to the pump. Aboveground pumps do not have diffusers and cannot pull or draw water. The water supply to the pump drains or “floods” the pump’s strainer basket. This is known as a flooded suction pump.
Above ground pumps are not self-priming and need to be placed below the water source. This allows the water to drain into the pump, which is known as a flooded suction.
You may have an air lock in the pump trap (turn the pump off). Once you remove the pump lid with the valve (if installed) closed for maintenance, you will need to open the valve with the lid on and slowly turn the lid counterclockwise just enough where the air in the trap will release and the trap will fill up with water. Close it once full and open the air relief on the filter. Once the system is ready to be started, restart the pump. Close air relief on the filter once you have a steady stream of water flowing out the air relief.
The impeller inside the pump volute may be broken or have come off the shaft.
There may be a blockage in the skimmer or the hose connecting the skimmer to the pump inlet.
The water level may be below the skimmer.
Any obstruction in the hose or skimmer can cause a hose to collapse.
The hose may be old and require replacement.
Check to ensure that the pump is not oversized for the hose and system. With new hoses collapsing, the pump may be too large or the hose diameter too small. If it collapsed once, chances are it will collapse again.
This could be because the pump is a “flooded suction” and the water from the pool is draining into the strainer basket, making lid replacement very difficult. Verify that the pump is off. The hose from the skimmer to the pump can have a valve installed to shut off the water or plug the skimmer until you can get the lid back on. With a flooded suction there should ideally be a valve at the skimmer and one at the return port. This enables you to isolate the plumbing system and work on it without water draining from the pool.
With valves on the system, you must remember to open them when work is completed, so the pump motor does not burn out from lack of water.
You need to know what kind of jet you have to determine the flow rate. This is the GPM for the following jets:
No more than 4″ away from wall. No less than 2 ½” away from wall (extension kits are available from Waterway).
Check the HP of the motor for GPM. Determine how many jets are in the spa. You should have 10-12 GPM per jet.
Check retainer ring for the following:
Pool water chemistry along with proper filtration is the key to clean healthy water. It doesn’t matter if you have 100 or 1,000,000 gallons of water, the same balance levels and chemical types are required (only the quantity will vary). Everything that enters the body of water affects water balance: swimmers, rain, pollution, animals and chemicals.
Every pool, each season, creates its own demand for different chemicals. The pool in your neighbor’s yard, with the same system and environment, may react totally different than your own. Every pool also develops a pattern each season. After observing how your pool reacts to different bather levels, rain, and the environment you will get a handle on your pools chemistry pattern and what is required to keep the water balanced. The accepted levels for balanced pool or spa water are listed below. Please consult with a local pool/spa professional or dealer for more details on maintaining a chemically balanced pool or spa.
|Total Alkalinity – Plaster||80-120 ppm||80-120 ppm|
|Total Alkalinity – Vinyl||100-150 ppm||100-150 ppm|
|pH||7.2 – 7.6||7.2 – 7.6|
|Bromine||2-4 ppm||3-5 ppm|
|Total Chlorine||1.0 – 3.0 ppm||2.0 – 4.0 ppm|
|Free Chlorine||1.0 – 3.0 ppm||2.0 – 4.0 ppm|
|Combined Chlorine||< 0.2 ppm||< 0.2 ppm|
|Cyanuric Acid||30 – 100 ppm||30 – 100 ppm|
|Calcium Hardness – Plaster||200 – 400 ppm||200 – 400 ppm|
|Calcium Hardness – Vinyl||175 – 300 ppm||175 – 300 ppm|
|TDS||< 2000 ppm||< 2000 ppm|
|Copper||< 0.3 ppm||< 0.1 ppm|
|Iron||< 0.3 ppm||< 0.1 ppm|
If the water is not properly maintained and the pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness are allowed to fall below the recommended levels, the water will turn corrosive and can etch plaster, wrinkle vinyl liners, irritate the eyes and skin, as well as corrode any metal components in the filtration system. The effects of this are most noticeable when a heater begins to leak. The corrosive water will eat at the copper in the heater’s heat exchanger. The copper will dissolve into the water and blond hair will start turning green and you may begin to see stains on the pool walls.
If the levels are kept above the proper ranges, the water becomes scale forming. Scale will build up on the pool walls, the water will remain cloudy, eyes and skin irritation will develop and chlorine will not work as effectively.
If you are in doubt as to how to maintain your pool or spa, contact a local pool/spa professional or dealer.
ONLY Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione (Tri-Chloro) based, slow dissolving stabilized tablets are to be used in the chlorinator.
A check valve is used to prevent water from flowing in the opposite direction. A check valve for a chlorinator is used to prevent chlorine gas from entering into the pool equipment. This is especially important if there is a gas heater.
ALL CHLORINATORS SHOULD HAVE A CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY.
CLC012 (inline) – maximum output of 24 grams per hour
CCF012 (offline) – maximum output of 35.3 gram per hour
The stem of the control knob has two o-rings to prevent leaks. If it is leaking at the knob, replace the entire knob assembly.
All Tri-Chlor tablets are comprised with a certain amount of binding materials (binders are used to convert the chemical into a tablet format). Using the purest form of Tri-Chlor will ensure less build up inside the chlorinator and extend the life of your chlorinator. Consult your local pool/spa professional for options.
Ensure the feeder has been drained of all water. Next remove the lid and properly dispose of any chlorine inside the chlorinator. Consult your chemical manufacturer for the required disposal procedures.
CCF012 – Remove the lid and disconnect the black tubing from the plumbing lines. Ensure that the water is drained, and then store for the winter.
CLC012 – Remove the lid and the check valve assembly on the bottom of the unit inside the canister. Replace the lid and screw on loosely.
Remove the complete chlorinator if unions are installed on both ends after drain, remove remaining chlorine from canister. Dispose of the remaining chlorine per manufacturer’s instructions, drain and store for the winter.
Yes. The lid o-ring should be lubricated at least once per month to maintain its elasticity.
A silicone-based lubricant should be used as it holds up better to the chlorine gas. Silicone or Teflon based o-ring lubricant is recommended on all o-rings used on Waterway product.
It can be due to either a jammed or clogged stem assembly or check valve. Check both, assuring that they are in good working condition.
A skimmer is a suction port, installed at water level. It collects surface debris in the basket, as the water flows through the skimmer to the filter.
The Association of Pool and Spa Professionals (APSP) advises that there should be a minimum of one skimmer per 400 sq. ft. of pool surface area.
A skimmer should be placed in the path of circulating water in the opposite direction of typical wind direction. There aren’t any hard rules on location, especially with the popularity of free form pools.
The equalizer valve goes into the skimmer, below the basket in the main drain port to balance the water flow. These are required for commercial applications in order to meet NSF code. The float valve monitors the water flow from the skimmer. If the flow is obstructed, or the water level falls below the skimmer throat, it will open the equalizer valve (if installed) so water can be pulled from the main drain, preventing an air lock in the skimmer.
The wide mouth opening allows more surface water to pass into the skimmer. In free form vinyl pools, the skimmer choice is based on the radius of the wall. A wall with too large of a radius will not fit a wide mouth and must use a standard opening.
The weir flap is a doorway into the skimmer. It has two functions:
The weir flap is a moving part that floats up and down with the level of the water. They are normally held in place with two small plastic tabs. Over time, or under extreme corrosive water conditions, the plastic tabs weaken and break.
Some Waterway skimmers are available with an extended throat. There are no throat extensions for vinyl liner pools. In gunite pools, the throat can be formed with concrete and can be made any length that is called for in the design.
This can be due to back pressure on the blower. If the blower is oversized for the amount of jets it’s providing air for, the blower will overheat and turn off. Another common problem is if the jets are not properly installed, they will allow water to get into the air line, causing the blower to overheat and turn off.
A blower shutting down can also be due to improper installation and plumbing of air line. See manual for plumbing and installation instructions.
Santanna II Blower Installation – 810-0037
FIP – Female Pipe thread X slip port
MIP – Male Pipe thread X slip port
SPG – Spigot connection (designed to fit inside a fitting such as coupling, elbow, etc. with a slip port)
S, SL – Slip (fitting will accept PVC pipe)
RB – Ribbed Barb
SB (B) – Smooth Barb
The eyeballs differ in size to produce various pressures. The ¾” eyeball will produce more pressure from the nozzle than the 1″ eyeball; however, it does not move as much water. The larger the opening, the more water will flow.
Note: The smaller the eyeball the harder the pump will have to work and the harder the pump has to work, the shorter its life.
It is a suction opening at the bottom of a pool or spa. Water is drawn into this opening by the circulation pump.
A hydrostatic relief valve is placed at the bottom of an in-ground pool. Its purpose is to open when excessive ground water pressure builds up allowing the ground water into the pool. These valves are most important during construction or when the pool needs to be drained. While the pool is empty, there is nothing weighing the pool down. It is at this time the pool vessel is most vulnerable. Without a hydrostatic relief valve, high ground water pressure could lift the pool out of the ground. The hydrostatic relief valve is installed upon installation of the pool, or when renovation work is being done. It is secured into one of the main drain ports. A pebble tube is required to prevent the hydrostatic valve from clogging.